Being a wanderlust and passion for writing got this blog started. I suppose I felt a need to share my travel experiences with the world. So clip on your travel wings and have a great flight!
Simla, in the peak of the summer of 2012 was truly a treat. Although
a summer capital during the British Raj, the weather, the place, the ambiance
told me that the title holds true in today’s climatic conditions as well. Hence,
escaping Delhi’s heat and the daily din was a delight.
As always an impromptu decision works wonders and we did
just that. Although my friend and her parents had planned in advance, I decided
to join them at the last moment. The early morning journey from New Delhi to
Kalka by Kalka Shatabdi was spent in excited chatter and intermittent naps.
Kalka was hotter than expected. We
quickly negotiated a taxi ride and set forth on the uphill drive to Simla.
After three hours of gradually cooling temperature, splendid
scenic views and a lunch break, Simla welcomed us with its fresh and breezy
climate. We were carried up with minimal luggage to the main mall via a pay
lift from the parking lot on Cart Road. Heavier luggage was carried by porters
on foot. Since vehicles are not allowed on the mall road, hence, the area
remains devoid of much pollution. However, Simla was not as cool as
anticipated, perhaps due to global warming.
Hotel Willow Bank is a five minute walk from the lift
enclosure and has one of the best panoramic views of the sprawling 12km hill
town strung along a ridge. Lunch and an afternoon power nap gave us the energy
and enthusiasm for an evening exploration. The market was scanned for the local
wares and food. The rest of the time was spent lazing below the floodlit Christ
Church steeple, watching the people, drinking local tea and absorbing the
pristine and relaxed environment far-far away from the clamour of the city. We
could also view the jungle trail leading up to the Jhaku Temple and the
gigantic image of Lord Hanuman.
Panorama
We awoke to a warmer morning. However, that did not deter us
from our planned trek to the Silma Kali Mandir via Scandal Point (central point
of the ridge). The temple is ancient and beautiful and the faithful throng there
in great numbers. We spent some quiet and peaceful moments there. Photography
is not allowed inside the premises. However, we satisfied ourselves by clicking
and posing against the natural surroundings. The trek back to the hotel left us
exhausted and lunch was light and rejuvenating. In the evening I decided to
take a walk alone as my friend was feeling a bit under the weather.
I had come to Simla in my childhood with my parents and noticed
that the town of old had undergone great developments. Although the increase in
the number of hotels and tourists had boosted the economy, the impact had surely
made a dent on the climatic system. However, some of the old world charm was
still intact. The Clarks Hotel maintained its regal space and customer base,
some of the shops still stood the erosion of time and most of all Simla tried
and continued to live up to its summer capital legacy. Even some old street
signage or building names still brought in the retro feel.
My engaging chain of
thoughts was broken by a vision of a most brilliant sunset. I quickly took a
shot with my phone and ran back to the hotel for my camera realising that my
very un-smart phone did not have enough memory. My friend’s Mother and I
watched the sunset mesmerized and I do not remember how many photos I clicked.
I even remember clicking a photo of the rising moon on the other side. It felt
as if nature was my muse that day.
We spent much of our time the following days taking nature
walks, tasting the food, shopping and simply being on a relaxed vacation. Although
the mall road has its regular fanfare, the lower bazaars are equally
attractive. The constant flow of local life, daily wares, and small shops
selling hardware, stationery, fabric and spices added to the uniqueness of the
whole place. In addition, the historic buildings with Tudor and Gothic style
architecture, the newly reopened Victorian Gaiety Theatre, Himachal State
Museum, the Visceral Lodge, The Town Hall etc. are within a couple of kilometers
from the Scandal Point (central point) helped
us learn more about the old Simla.
Getting Around
Although we did not venture out of the town, one can surely
travel to nearby locales. Jhaku Temple, Kufri, Chail and Kasauli are beautiful
places in the vicinity to enjoy the chill as well as the scenic beauty. The roads
are often laced with orchards and winds through the undulating hills robed
in pine and cedar forests. One can take yak rides as well. A day-long
visit to these hamlets can be very therapeutic.
Goodbye
The following day was our last day in Simla. We spent the
morning collecting some memorabilia of local herbal and organic products for
friends and family back home and for ourselves. We even clicked some photos to
capture our vacation forever. The
journey back was mostly silent. We had filled our luggage and hearts with happy
memories to last us for a long time. Although my friend's Father is no longer with us today, this last trip with him will remain a warm memory forever.
I felt that my return to Dehradun and Mussoorie after 17 years was destined. But I had never imagined it would be during the monsoon of 2011.
Living in the city, I had lost the charm of the monsoon season. Apart from welcoming the showers after the scorching and sweltering summer, there was no other reason to rejoice. The romantic and poetic inspiration brought about by this season, the beautiful aroma of damp earth and the clean and green look of the trees had been almost washed away by the slush and waterlogged streets, longer traffic jams and delayed travel time everyday.
Today, having witnessed the rains in Dehradun during dusk and the floating clouds in ever-lovely Mussoorie, nostalgia and love for the monsoon was re-kindled, and here I am writing this piece.
The road trip from Gurgaon to Dehradun with my cousin and her family was full of fun and food. It was such a delight to have ideal companions to make my journey memorable. Crossing the elephant corridor of Rajaji National Park during twilight was an expectant experience. However, all we witnessed were some langoors. Passing through Haridwar brought back recollections of the past trip with a friend few years ago. It gave me great pleasure to share those experiences with everyone about the evening Ganga-Aarti and the trek to Mansa Devi Temple as well as the white-water rafting at Rishikesh.
Lodging and boarding was at Hotel Doon Castle at Dehradun for two nights. The up-hill drive to Mussoorie next day was enthralling. Old memories floated in the mind like the lazily floating clouds. As we moved up, the view of the multi-coloured roofs in the valley below, against the setting of lush green forests was a Kodak moment. I suppose the monsoon brought out the beauty of the Himalayas as a perfect picture postcard.
Arriving at Mussoorie, the utter madness of vehicles, people, shops and vendors and the noise, showed me the portrait of a hamlet which too had turned into a typical commercial hill-station. Escaping this, we reached ‘Abasar’, the quaint little house on a hillock owned by my Uncle. Fighting emotions we treated ourselves to hot coffee, serene environment, beautiful blossoms, mountain smells, pleasant weather, old photographs, reminiscences and scenic splendor.
While lunch was warm and delicious against the backdrop of the mountains, tea was relished during the downpour in the Dehradun valley. The panoramic view from the hotel window changed as I drank it all in.
On our way back we stopped over at a residential plot on the outskirts of Dehradun. The forest pathway leading to this location attracted us. A multi-hued monastery with its rows of fluttering prayer flags also greeted us on the way. It was as if people were constructing small bungalows in a fascinating valley surrounded by gigantic mountains and forests on all sides. Wonder how would one feel living there everyday?
It seemed the time taken for the return journey was faster. It’s relative they say! The rains, the food, the conversation and the constant photo sessions took away the fatigue and the sadness of the departure. My nine year old nephew played ‘20 Questions’ with such élan that his wisdom left me amazed. Although reaching Gurgaon after three days brought us back to reality, however, a hope and dream to return to the Himalayas always remains ignited.
The quaint picture-postcard town of Naggar tucked away in the hills of Himachal Pradesh has always haunted me to revisit ever since my first trip in 2005. Perhaps the initial one was incomplete and I had to return to fulfil the desire. Last summer when I was discussing a recent trekking journey with a cousin, she expressed a desire to visit some interesting and non-commercial hill station and I couldn’t help but suggest Naggar. It overlooks the Beas River and is an absolute delight for the visitor. Moreover, since I needed to unwind myself after 6 months of constant deadlines, I knew Naggar was the best place which would work like magic to my senses.
We decided to take the trip during early March so that we could avoid the peak winter, yet enjoy the cool weather and perhaps catch a few snow peaks if luck favoured. Incidentally, it had also been a while since I’d met some old friends whom I’d befriended during my first visit and I looked forward to that as well. Since the owner of Hotel ‘Ragini’ (Manoj Bhai) was well known to me, I made a frantic call and booked our rooms and my cousin diligently fulfilled her responsibility of booking the bus tickets. Adding two more friends to our party we headed off with our backpacks on another impromptu trip with a shoe-string budget.
Good old Naggar:
Naggar is located at 1850 meters above sea level, which is 150 meters below Manali and 30 km away. An overnight bus (Volvo bus for Rs.700 per head) journey from Himachal Bhavan/ Chandralok Building in Connaught Place in New Delhi takes you to Manali. One needs to book tickets in advance from the same venue. We set off on a Thursday evening and settled in for a long 14 hours ride (590 km). Dinner was at a roadside hotel on the Karnal highway. Next stop was at the crack of grey dawn for some hot, sweet and milky tea. The glorious mountain sunrise on Friday morning and the gradually changing terrain was an amazing sight. Then we crossed Kullu and got off at Patlikul which stands on the banks of River Beas. An auto took us to picturesque Naggar which is a 10 minutes uphill ride. Setting foot in this place automatically brought forth a therapeutic feeling.
Very little had changed since my last trip three years ago. Hotel Ragini still stood quietly in its place, flanked by the majestic Naggar Castle with the backdrop of the snow capped mountains. The friendly and ever smiling face of Manoj Bhai greeted us with open arms and I felt at home again. Having checked into our cosy rooms (Rs.600 for a double bed) we relished tea and breakfast in the hotel’s roof-top restaurant. One can sit here for hours sunbathing and marvelling at nature’s magnificence.
A quick hot refreshing bath washed away our fatigue and we were ready to scout the village and soak in as much of natural essence as possible. A nature walk along the narrow paths and woods cleared our minds and respiratory systems. An atmosphere of chirping birds and a wide variety of flora and fauna calmed us a great deal. It was interesting to note that apart from some small tea shops and a restaurant (Om Shanti Café) my old Naggar was the same with its apple orchards, trees, birds and lots of warm and friendly people. The great number of foreigners (mainly Europeans and Russians) sometimes made us wonder if we’re still in India. We killed time until lunch. Post that, we decided to visit the Naggar Castle (visiting hours-all days) and the Roerich Art Gallery (visiting hours 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm on all days except Mondays. INR 20 is the entry fee). Although the rains tried to dampen our spirits and quash our plans to take a trip down Naggar’s history, we braved the weather in our wind-cheaters and umbrellas (please remember to carry your own equipment).
History Lesson:
Late Prof. Nicholas Roerich was a Russian artist. He and his family had settled in Naggar for a long time, and after his death, their house was converted into a museum by the authorities. An art gallery has also been constructed adjacent to the house with his various paintings (Himalayan locales), artefacts, photographs etc. There were many enthusiasts like us at the location that evening and the semi-dilapidated structure’s wooden staircase creaked underneath all our weight. Since there was no electricity and the house was locked we obtained knowledge via peeping inside the rooms through the glass windows and reading the displayed plaques. A visit to the gallery was quite a learning event. The place was filled with Roerich’s paintings, sculptures, important photographs and a plethora of memorabilia. Interestingly, there was a display of paintings from a recent children’s painting competition as well which was rightly in contrast to the ancient works of art.
Although the downpour had stopped, the walk to the Naggar Castle was wet and cold. Thus we energised ourselves with some hot sweet tea. We learned that the town of Naggar was initially discovered by Raja Vishudpal. This later was made the capital of the Kullu Valley and the castle was built by Raja Bhosal which till date is a signature monument of the ancient Indian architecture. Today this building has been converted into a luxury hotel by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Department and you can get a guide to take you around the area to give to a fair idea of the historical importance. From the castle’s balconies one can get an extensive view of terraced fields and apple orchards below.
I had befriended a German-Norwegian couple the last time I was at Naggar. Karen and Claus were tourists then and are currently residents of a small rented cottage on the top of a hillock near an ancient Krishna Temple (fabled to have been built by the Pandavas). Hence, visiting them as well as the temple was a priority. We gave them a ring and confirmed their availability. Then we trekked through narrow muddy and hilly pathways and woods to reach their little cottage. It was lovely to enjoy tea and their hospitality and an amazing experience meeting my friends after a long time and visiting the temple. The view of Naggar from this point was breathtaking.
Our history lesson complete we returned to our hotel and curled up near the bon-fire lit in the terrace restaurant. Manoj Bhai in his usual hospitable nature had arranged this to keep us warm. The brilliant light of the flame as well as the twinkling lights from the nearby hills created a gleaming effect in the otherwise dark and cold evening. Dinner was light and delicious…thanks to the brilliant chefs of Ragini. We chatted and killed time until the fire died out and then returned to our cosy rooms and hit the sack right away.
The itinerary for Saturday was to see some important spots in the region. So we jointly decided upon Manikaran. This place is famous for its many temples (Lord Rama, Krishna and Vishnu) and gurdwara (Manikaran Sahib or Shri Guru Nanakji Dev Gurdwara). These were built around a hot spring in the Parvati Valley between the Beas and Parvati rivers. Manikaran is situated at an altitude of about 1760 meters and is located at least 66 km uphill from Naggar. Stuffing ourselves with a heavy breakfast, we booked a Maruti Van and set off on our journey.
Manikaran:
The drive to Manikaran was incredible. The mountains on one side and the Beas on the other brought a feeling of déjà vu of the drive to Lava in North Bengal some years ago. Sometimes some rain made the scenic beauty more breath-taking. In addition, bright colourful flowers and green foliage were a further treat to my eyes. After about 1.5 hours (63 km) we reached a small town and could only spot foreigners as far as the eye could see. Now the Beas was at ground level and we promised to wash our feet in the water on our return.
Manikaran welcomed us moments later. There are about three temples and a gurdwara on the banks of the Beas and the latter is famous for its hot water springs. Legend has it that some centuries ago the Sikh founder Guru Nanak Dev was in this area with one of his disciples (Bhai Mardana). Here Guruji has performed many miracles including creating a hot spring. We saw people of all faiths drinking, taking a dip and bathing in the hot water which was said to have healing, cleansing and purifying powers. We also noted that till date the spring water is used to cook gallons of food which is served in the gurdwara langar (mass feasts for the general public) every day. It is also a tradition to dip your little cloth bag of rice and dal (lentils) in this hot spring, cook it well and have it as prasad before leaving with Babaji’s Blessings. Praying to Babaji and eating the delicious food at the langar had satiated and fulfilled us in totality.
Another legend goes that Lord Shiva and Parvati lived in this region for thousands of years. When suddenly one day Parvati lost a gem (mani) from her earring and it was not found anywhere, the angry Lord Shiva opened His Third Eye in order to destroy the earth. Fearing the worst, the Gods requested Shesh Nag (mythological snake) to find the lost gem. The snake found that gem and many more with much difficulty and handed them over to Parvati. Hence, the place has been named Manikaran.
We stopped to wash our feet in the Beas on our way back. It was a wonderful experience and something which we didn’t want to let go with ease. But we had to return due to overcast conditions. Fatigued and famished we gobbled some food and hit the sack by 9 pm.
Since we didn’t have too much time the next day, we decided to catch a quick glimpse of the local Tibetan monastery which is famous for Tibetan thankas, carpet weaving and handicrafts. Then we did a round of some Shiva temples which have stood the test of time. Finally some souvenir shopping for the people back home included the local handicrafts (baskets, shawls, sweaters) and olive and almond oils and of course lots of delicious and juicy apples.
Adventure sports and more:
In case one is the adventurous type, Manoj Bhai can arrange for paragliding, white water rafting and biking tours. Trout fishing can be another form of pastime in this region. Besides these, the jungles around this area are infamous for wild marijuana plants. But one must know where to look and whom to ask for it.
Journey’s end:
Post lunch we headed for Manali to catch our bus from there. Since we reached there in an hour, we had time to kill. We made a quick research and noted that we could see a famous temple which was in the vicinity and then have some good lunch and dessert. The visit to the ancient Manu Temple gave us an insight of the socio-cultural lifestyle of the Indians during that century. It is dedicated to Manu Rishi and is set some 3 km. from the main bazar in old Manali. This is famed to be the only temple of Manu (the creator of human race on earth). We didn’t have to go far for food. The variety of food joints (Italian, Indian, German bakeries) and souvenir shops mushroomed here gave ample proof of the heavy footfall at this temple. We had Italian lunch in what looked like a shack but was surely a treat to our taste buds. Yummy chocolate dessert at a nearby German bakery filled our hearts.
Thus happy and satiated, we sat at a height to have one last vision of the scenic beauty and take in our last dose of crisp pristine mountainous air which we’ll not be provided in the near future. Our bus arrived at the scheduled hour and we set off promising to return to this enchanted land once again.
The prospect of visiting Dubai during its ‘Shopping Festival’ seemed only a reality for the rich & famous. So, when I heard about an official visit being planned there for a weekend (during the festival), I couldn’t believe my luck. Although I’ve had the pleasure of travelling to the mid-east to visit by brother and his family in Bahrain, Dubai almost always seemed unreachable. Personally, I feel Bahrain is more homely and approachable (although one of the richest nations in the world) and alternatively, Dubai is truly a shopper’s paradise and quite a display of grandeur.
Oh well, never mind the comparison! I was going to Dubai and that’s what was most important. A 2.5 hours flight from New Delhi takes you to this enchanting land. Women travellers please do ensure to get your visa clearance before anything else, because I had quite an ordeal with that. Visa however, is available on arrival. It was a pleasant January mid-day which greeted us in Dubai, UAE and we were duly taken away to our hotel in an AC bus (quite unthinkable in Delhi winters). Everything from vehicles to schools is air conditioned to combat the excessive desert heat.
Our itinerary for the next 3 days included sight-seeing, shopping and attending the conference, of course. After exchanging our dollars for dirhams, our Delhi tour manager advised us to huddle at the hotel lobby at around 4:00 pm local time (1.5 hours behind IST) to join in the city tour. Lunch was a scrumptious spread of all we could think of and we hogged to our heart’s content.
Much to our surprise, our tour guide was an Indian named Mahesh. He had settled here for 5 years now. He came here to fulfil his dreams and began with odd jobs initially. By the end of a couple of years or so, he realized he knew the place well enough to become a guide and enrolled himself accordingly. Apart from the long and odd hours he has to put in, what keeps him going is the money, the myriad variety of people he meets and of course not being too far away from home.
We were informed that Dubai makes for at least 110 nationalities of the world which attributes to its cosmopolitan culture. These amount to at least 29% of Euro-American expats and 60% from the sub-continent (40% of which are Indian) among others (11%). In fact, in a city of around 1.5 million, less than 600 families (11% approx.) are the local Emiratis. The official religion of the UAE is Islam and all the citizens are Sunni Muslims. The remaining population is primarily Muslim, followed by Hindus and Catholics.
We were taken around the city and were quite intrigued at the sight of the variety of residential estates and small houses and hotels. It was strange to note that there are no street numbers or house numbers. Only the neighbourhoods had names. Hence, according to Mahesh, in case you’re invited to someone’s house for a meal for the first time, it’s customary to get picked up. Otherwise you have to totally depend on the taxi driver to take you around. Yes, taxis and public buses are readily available around the city.
We were shown the RoyalPalace but were not allowed to photograph it. This residence of Sheikh Mohammed of Al Makhtoum clan is a treat to watch due to exquisite Islamic architecture. We were told that the Sheikh follows his father’s (Sheikh Rashid) foresight and dynamism and is the architect of modern Dubai. We noted with awe that gone are the days of quaint date palm frond huts, pearl fishing classes (which also taught Arabic, Islam and Mathematics), food fetching falcons, donkeys being used as modes of transport and people swimming across the creek for pearl and gold trade. All that seemed to have been bulldozed out in the last 3-4 decades, and proudly replaced by spectacular and dizzying array of development projects such as ‘World Islands’, ‘Business Bay’, ‘Dubai Aerodrome’, ‘Dubai Festival City’, ‘Dubai Land’, ‘Dubai Marina’, ‘Hydropolis underwater hotel’, ‘Ski Dome’ and of course the ‘Palm Islands’ at Jebel Ali. No wonder His Highness is known as the ‘Builder Sheikh’.
Next on the agenda was the DubaiMuseum in the Al Fahidi Fort which was built around the 1800s. Amongst the variety of ancient memorabilia, the museum also holds regular light and sound shows of a slice of Dubai’s course of development in the past few centuries. This is a must watch! A sight of the Jumeirah Mosque after that gave us another stunning example of mid-eastern architecture.
Soaking in this history lesson, we headed towards the beach. It was nearing sunset time, and, lo behold, I had the most amazing sunset views of my life. Watching the Persian Gulf gulp the flame orange fire ball into its depths was an amazing experience. Coupled with this, the sight of the majestic Hotel Al Burj caught by breath as well.This hotel is situated within the ocean built on a man-made island. It is an architectural marvel of modern Dubai. It is an exotic building standing 321 meters tall with 202 luxury suites with floor-to ceiling windows to ensure breath-taking views of the city and the ocean for the guests. There is a helipad on the terrace which is used occasionally. One can enjoy this extravagance at an astronomical price. So let’s leave it for the super swank population of the world. Some local Emiratis swished past us in their long flowing milky white thobs and ladies in their black abayas and I was tempted to photograph them amidst the beautiful surroundings. However, such is not allowed in the mid-east.
After the Al Burj it was time to visit the souks (markets). These are almost like the whole-sale markets of north Delhi where all is available from electronic items to clothes among others. However, the most striking amongst them all is the gold souk. Evenings are heavy at this gold market, since prices are at all time low in this part of the world and the sights are quite blinding. This being festival time, we faced unbelievable crowds. I purchased a pair of small earrings and an equally small pendant for my mother and sis-in-law since I wasn’t on a big budget.
Dinner and some heavy partying were in store for us on an Arabic dhow (boat) floating on the Dubai creek. These dhows are used as water taxis to cross the creek for trade and communication. Our dhow was double storied. The deck was a vast restaurant with great spread of food and drinks on offer. We were treated to spectacular fire cracker shows since it was ‘Shopping Festival’ time. Below the deck there were Bedouin belly dancers shaking to melodious Arabic tunes and added further glitter to the starry night.Happy and tired with the day’s indulgence, it was time to head back to our hotel.I hit the sack right away so that I can wake up fresh and bright the next day for the conference.
Attending an official conference overseas and that too with a so many participants and colleagues from all over India was a new and learning experience. It was a marathonic four hour session, after which we had a delicious lunch.
Once again we were ready for another trip and packed into 18 Land Cruisers (7 in each). We stopped at a petrol station and strangely noted that apart from filling the tanks, the drivers were de-airing the tires to lighten them. Our driver Imtiaz was from Pakistan and had been earning his livelihood in this manner for the past 7-8 years. Driving in the desert safari was quite a challenge and interesting initially, but he’s quite used to it by now. Although he loves this sport and meeting new people every day, he said the earning is quite frugal and hence, he maintains a low standard of living. He misses his daughter and wife since he cannot go home as often as he wishes. He gave us his business card and asked us to keep in touch.
Before we realized it, we had reached the desert on the outskirts of Dubai. All the SUVs raced and began the safari. It was a race of the mightiest and there was no looking back. We all had strapped our safety belts except for Imtiaz. He didn’t need to any more. It was a mind-boggling and nerve-wrecking experience and literally kept us off our seats all the while. Perhaps those who’ve been on a roller-coaster ride have felt the same. The sudden nose-dives and vertical climbs on soft sand dunes, although triggered off a cyclone of million butterflies in my stomach, I enjoyed it thoroughly till it lasted.
I really can’t quite remember who won, but we ended at another sunset point. I suppose God had decided to treat me to the best sunset views of my life back to back, and I felt fortunate. The sun going down behind the sand dunes in the distance was equally exquisite.This over, we were driven to an ecologically created camp in the desert. ‘Khawa’ (local tea) was served as a welcome drink by a sheik. This atmosphere resembled ancient Arabic temporary nomadic camps which were occasionally set up around an oasis. Many of my excited colleagues were taking camel rides around the camp. Some women sat in a huddle and applied henna on the palms of interested candidates. We noticed there were scores of tents set up in a circle, with a carpeted square in the centre of the camp surrounded by cosy cushions and pillows. We were told this had been set up for performing belly dancers and for us to sit around and enjoy the same. There was a makeshift bar offering all the drinks you could think of. In addition, we were offered yummy grilled kebabs (chicken and fish) at some make shift take away counters. Interestingly though, the SUV drivers had turned into chefs.All this made our exclusive belly-dance show more memorable.
Since this was an ecological camp, we needed to cut the fun and frolic leave by 10pm in order to maintain the environment. Hats off to Dubai’s eco-friendly gesture! Our SUVs dropped us back at our hotel and we most of us slept off right away. Those who had not been able to switch off from the party mode hit the hotel dance floor to shake a bit more.
Shop till you drop was the motto of our last day in Dubai. We had decided to empty our pockets, rather our credit and debit cards and the make the most of the ‘Dubai Shopping Festival’. We were on our own that day and, hence, decided to have lunch/ brunch outside. Hiring a cab we took rounds at the several malls to investigate what’s available and affordable and would be a logical buy to carry back to India. There were promised souvenirs to be hunted of which would mostly include chocolates and knick-knacks.Among others, electronic items, cosmetics and toiletries were the most common. After spending almost half the day, our energy and money at ‘The City Centre Mall’, ‘The Lulu Hypermarket’ etc., we headed back to our hotels with our merchandise. It was truly an eventful day.
Packing, dinner and sleep followed thereafter. We woke in the wee hours of the morning the next day to catch our return flight to New Delhi and to our normal lives. One last link to the Dubai marvel was the glittering duty free shops at the international airport. There was gold shop with a tree made of gold behind it. It was a wonder that the tree was untouched and safe. God knows what its fate would have been in India.
It was fabulous end to a memorable weekend and we cherished it since it was something which would not be repeated in the near future. Mingling ourselves with the spectacular splendour of Dubai was a fulfilled dream and shall remain with us fondly until we visit again.
If it wasn’t for my German friend’s (Lena) over enthusiasm my passion for river rafting would have always remained an un-fulfilled dream. I was going through an emotional grey patch and a mention of Haridwar and Rishikesh sounded like music to my ears. I’ve always wanted to offer my prayers to River Ganga at Haridwar and attend the riverside “aarti”. Coupled with this river rafting at Rishikesh seemed like a great weekend break. This impromptu plan compelled us to hunt for a suitable and affordable means to reach Haridwar. We had trains and buses to choose form. Although a train journey sounded more comfortable, obtaining tickets was impossible at the drop of a hat. Hence, with the help of a couple of friends we shortlisted some Haridwar bound buses which commence from ISBT Kashmere gate in Old Delhi at 7:00 am. Having achieved all this by Wednesday, we were quite excited about the forthcoming vacation. Both of us arrived at ISBT at 6:30 am on Friday, and located a travel agency out of the multiple which have mushroomed there. Bus tickets range from INR 250/- to 350/- per head depending upon the quality of service. We dozed off once the bus set off on the 6 – 7 hour’s journey. The bus stopped with a jolt after several hours and woke us from our slumber. We had halted for brunch at a roadside “dhaba” (eatery). Since my friend loves parathas, we gorged on some scrumptious ones with hot and sweet tea for company. This was a welcome break since our back and legs were aching being in an immovable stationary position for so long. Nevertheless, we set off for the remaining part of the journey shortly. Arriving at Haridwar at 2:00 pm the prime need of the hour was a shelter and food. Due to our impromptu plan, we had not booked a hotel, but had a few shortlisted from “Lonely Planet’s” India guide (this is an amazing travel companion). Our rickshaw took us to one of these and we checked into a neat double-bed room with a balcony. Hotel fare in this area (near Har-ki-pauri) is INR 200-300 per day (without food) which is both affordable and economical. Only vegetarian food is always available at the numerous eateries in the vicinity. A quick bath refreshed us to venture out in search of food, and a stomach full of delicious South Indian food energized us take a walk till Har-ki-pauri. I could not believe that I would finally be a part of the “sandhya aarti” of Goddess Ganga at Har-ki-pauri in Haridwar.
Great mythological importance
This town holds great mythological importance. Har-ki-pauri (Lord Vishnu’s footstep) or Brahm Kund is the main ghat at Haridwar. The river at this point begins its journey towards the plains. This was constructed by King Vikramaditya. “Har” means Lord Vishnu and “pauri” means steps. Since this place has a large footprint of the Lord on a stone wall, hence, the name. The temple of the river Goddess is situated at Har-ki-pauri at the banks of the river Ganga. One can also admire the humungous terracotta idle of Lord Shiva built across the bank signifying the importance of the legend that Ganga was released from Shiva’s matted locks in heaven and came down to earth to wash the sins of the humans. This sacred bank is regarded as auspicious for the devout Hindus who believe in taking a dip here whenever possible, although the strong currents are difficult to dodge. Hence, some strong chains have been provided for the regular bathers to hold on to. Millions of such pilgrims take a holy dip and bathe during the Ardh Kumbh and the Purna Kumbh festivals which are held here after every 6 and 12 years respectively.
“Ganga Aarti”
Lena, like all foreigners, was quite aware of the Ganga’s holiness. Hence, she filled a bottle with the semi unclean river water. Some male Indian tourists were much interested in posing with her for photos. But I noticed something more interesting had caught her eye. She had bought two small floral baskets to offer to the river at the end of the “aarti”. These baskets are available at a variety of prices and sizes with a piece of alum in each. The alum pieces were being lit and the baskets were being floated in thousands in the water making them look like brilliantly lit boats. The entire ghat looked like a diwali night and the experience was nothing quite as beautiful I had seen in a long time.
Having finally witnessed and participated in the “Ganga Aarti”, I felt a sense of peace and prayed for the well being of friends, family, my country and this world. We headed for the hotel after grabbing a quick bite since we didn’t want to spoil the spiritual mood with any other activity. Moreover, we were tired and were surely looking forward to the next day’s adventures. Our plan for Saturday was white water rafting from Shivpuri to Laxmanjhula in Rishikesh. But we had made a mistake…as usual we hadn’t booked in advance. So our brilliant plan was not so brilliant after all…but we were not giving up so easily. Rafting was one adventure sport I wanted to be a part of once before I die and I believe Lena too seconded that. So, we definitely didn’t want it to be “so near yet so far”. It takes a little over an hour (40 km) and INR 20-40 to reach Rishikesh either by bus or shared auto.
This town can also be reached directly by flight, train, car or bus from Delhi. Checking with all the rafting agencies we realized that we should’ve arrived at Rishikesh by 9:00 am, since these rafts return by 12:30- 1:00 pm (that’s the time we had arrived). But we were not to be deterred so easily and kept our fingers crossed and hope up. Perhaps, it was our enthusiastic attitude and the Blessings of Goddess Ganga; we managed to convince one of the agents to fix a trip for us which would be of 16 km instead of the regular 27 km.
Rishikesh
Rishikesh was put on the world map when the leading British musical band of Beatles visited Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s Ashram (now closed) here. Moreover, the place is also famous as the World Capital of Yoga. The north-eastern part of the town has two bridges of mythological importance.
Lakshman Jhula and Ram Jhula
Lakshman Jhula is a 3 km pedestrian suspension bridge used by pilgrims and tourists to cross the Ganga and take the old route to the holy shrines of Badrinath and Kedaranth. Legend has it that Lord Ram’s brother Lakshman crossed the river on a rope and this bridge was constructed thereafter. Ram Jhula has been added recently to the original attraction.
Shivpuri
Shivpuri (which is 16km uphill from Rishikesh), is the Mecca of river–rafting in India since 1984. Although the ideal time is between April and October, we were here in February, and were rightly feeling the chill. Since this was an impromptu trip; we needed to make our own arrangements to reach Shivpuri. Hitching a ride in an open truck which carried a raft, we said, “Adventure here we come”!!!!! So you got to be damn lucky if you are a back packer, on a shoe string budget, jump on an unplanned tour and want to have a blast. Shivpuri welcomed us with clear deep blue sky, pristine water and quaint beach camps (for night stay). This seemed to be a different world altogether. At a distance we could see a raft with several enthusiastic rafters braving the rapids. Since we didn’t plan to spend the night we were travelling light. In fact, our bags were locked away in the travel agency near Laxmanjhula. For those of you who plan ahead can book for a night in one of these 25 beach camps which provide all basic facilities. It’s interesting to note that 70% of these tour operators are locals who make a giant contribution towards the economy. All strapped up in life jackets and helmets we were ready to hit to road……..oops the water. Remember to wear light clothes (t- shirts & shorts) and strappy open footwear. It’s ok if you are not a swimmer because there are trained and capable guides in the raft guiding you all the way. Mobile phones and cameras are allowed and are kept safely in a waterproof bag.
River rafting: Super hyper adventure sport
If you thought river rafting is child’s play, well, think, again. Although the whole experience brings out the child in you, the trainer’s instructions are a handful and it’s quite a task following those against the rough and adamant rapids. Each rafter has a task cut out, which helps in navigating the rubber raft across the rocks and rapids. The nervous journey begins with a chorus of “Jai Ganga Maa” to show respect to the river. We were informed by our guide that the rapids vary from grade 2 to 4.5 and are named accordingly, such as roller coaster, golf course etc. As we rowed our way downhill braving and overcoming each big and small rapid, we experienced unexplained adrenaline rush. Our clothes were wet enough to send a chill down our spines, but the regular warmth of the sun kept us going. It’s mandatory to be on your guard all the way. The boat is very light and can capsize anytime due to the sheer force of the water. Accidents strike unannounced, and believe me; one was waiting for us too. One of the girls in our raft accidentally fell into the water and was engulfed into a spiraling rapid. We panicked and she was paddling hard despite our guide’s repeated advice about staying calm in case anyone fell into water. It took us quite a while to settle in after she was pulled out by our trainer and breathed easy. Midway along the stretch is a calm section where you are allowed to swim in the ice cold river. The lilting sunlight on the sedate water was breathtaking and was such a contrast to what we have just navigated through. Since most rafts stop here, people take a swim and even dive into the water from a 10 feet cliff; one can spot a couple of snack vendors trying to make a fast buck. This spot also makes for a great photo option. With clothes soaked to our skin this super hyper adventure sport left us on a high note as we reached Laxmanjhula. Collecting our stuff, we hopped on a bus and moved on towards Haridwar to return to our cozy hotel. Arriving at Haridwar we headed straight for a hot bath. The day had left us with exhaustion as well as complete satisfaction. We had experienced more than we came in search of and now the only thing we were hungry for was food. It is important to note that non-vegetarian food and alcohol is taboo in these parts. So for those with a strong appetite for both would be a tad bit difficult. But, one can always relish the north and south Indian veg. food available widely, as well as the meals offered at multi cuisine café’s and dhabas for the quintessential backpacker like us. Ayurvedic and organic food might interest the health freaks.
Other Attractions
Being on a tight budget and an even tighter schedule, we missed various places of interest which deserve worthy mention and should be covered by you:
The Trayambakeshwar temple at Laxman jhula which is 13 stories high and houses a variety of Hindu deities.
If you want your kids as well as yourself to get Vedic education, then a visit to Parmarth Niketan is necessary. Evening aarti held at 5 pm and 6 pm in winter and summer respectively is a must visit.
You can also take a dip at the Triveni Ghat and cleanse your sins with the mystical power of Ganga.
For the brave and active, whose thirst for adventure had not been quenched as yet can try rappelling, rock climbing. Cliff jumping, kayaking and trekking.
Of course, yoga is last but definitely not the least. Hence, the yogic at heart, the health conscious and those who are looking for formulae to end their stressful lives, must visit the various yoga schools and ashrams which are peppered across the region. The Ananda Spa can also be added to the agenda of the rich and famous looking for luxury and international spa therapies.
After buying bus tickets for our return journey the next day, we were left with time to kill, or perhaps to shop and empty our pockets in this holy land. The local market offered us with loads of local waves such as a plethora of religious paraphernalia, inexpensive clothing, incense, bronze, Shiva statues, sealed pots of gangajal etc. These can be available at cheap rates and you can make quite a bargain. The walk back to our hotel was interrupted by a photo op at a bag shop with my namesake, which was quite exciting. It didn’t take us long to fall asleep after reminiscing the day’s activities with mixed emotions.
Mansa Devi Temple
Since our bus would leave post-lunch, we decided to make the most our free time in the morning. We decided to trek to the Mansa Devi temple located above Haridwar on top of a hill. We realized we were not the only ones. We had joined a whole army of devotees towards the same destination. It was surely a difficult uphill task as I realized how unfit I was. Lena was way up ahead of me. Anyway, I huffed and puffed by way to the temple, with her waiting at the gates for me. We offered our prayers with complete devotion. Returning by the rope way carriage we had a bird’s eye view of the city.
Endings are always sad and this was too. But we had enjoyed to our heart’s content in these 2 days. It felt as if we had offered our prayers and respect to Goddess Ganga in more ways than one. True we couldn’t travel the entire 2500 km course of the Ganga from Gomukh to Bay of Bengal, but participating in the evening aarti, floating diyas in the waters and paying tribute at the serenity of this beautiful land of Gods, we found all the peace and joy that we had hoped for. Surely, we shall return for some more of this therapy in the near future.
Wedged between the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal and the Kingdom of Bhutan, Sikkim cozily sits in the lap of the majestic Kanchenjunga Range. The Sikkim Tourism department might give it a tagline of “Small but Beautiful”, there’s noting small about the jewels this land has to offer. This hot-spot of biodiversity promises vistas of mountains, lakes, monasteries, numerous species of flora and fauna and the unforgettable hospitable, simple and ever smiling people. All this and more welcomes you to this abode of peace, tranquility and mystique.
Gangtok was an obvious choice for a short vacation to escape the stressed and hectic schedule of daily life. An impromptu plan was decided upon and the 1st week of November that year saw a party of 15 set off to discover and solve the secrets of this hilly nook.
If you are on a tight schedule you can take a flight to the Bagdogra Airport from where the Hotel’s taxi services can take you to Gangtok which is 4 hours/125 km away. We took the train from Sealdah Station to New Jalpaiguri and from there the 127km/4 hours drive through the dense forests uphill, all the way to Hotel Annapurna in Gangtok. The Teesta River’s constant companionship on one side was an unmistakable sight. Its clean and pure white water gushing along and kissing the feet of the majestic mountains gives you a different kind of adrenalin rush.
Our uphill journey along the jungle roads brought us face to face with the fact that the localites work very hard to keep their Sikkim spick & span. Hence cleanliness is like a religion and littering is considered almost a crime. This was evidenced when one of our group was caught trying to do the same and received a stern word from the bus Driver and Conductor. Further, the State is a non-polythene zone. So do make sure you don’t carry any plastic bags.
The spectacular ride ended at the Central Bus Terminus of the small and cozy town of Gangtok. The remaining part of the journey (up to the Hotel) was completed in Maruti Vans with 4 passengers in each. Yes, interestingly, the meandering roads do not permit heavier vehicles that these.
The town warmly welcomed us with open arms and smiling faces of a unique blend of Nepalese, Bhutias and Lepchas- all part of the three ethnic groups of Sikkimese people. The Lepchas are believed to be Sikkim’s earliest and original inhabitants, the Bhutias came from Eastern Tibet and the Nepalese from Nepal. Although these groups follow their own culture and religion, they worship the mountains as the abode of Gods. Having said this, another smooth combination was noticed in the dressing sense of these people. On the one hand there were some localites wearing the Sikkimese Bakhu, whereas, on the other, a group of youngsters were headed towards college in their casual western wear. This ambience of a sense freedom in this quaint land left us quite amazed. Further, there were some American and European tourists who claimed they keep visiting Sikkim time and again only to try and understand and solve this mystique of the hills.
Since our date with site seeing was fixed for the next day, we decided to explore Gangtok town on foot and discover what it has to offer. A nice hot bath at the hotel got us hungry and we checked into a nearby restaurant for a sumptuous meal. It offered delicious platters of mixed Chinese, Tibetan and Sikkimese cuisine which included among other things gallons of thupka (noodle soup), tons of momos, nettle soup and edible orchids. If you’re a traveler you should always be eager and ready to experiment with the local food, since that’s how you experience the true essence of the place.
Having said that and stuffing our hearts and stomachs for the time being, we set out to explore the Lal Bazaar (local market). We packed ourselves with woolies since there was a slight nip in the air to add to the charm of the early evening serenity. The market, located at a slightly lower level brought us in touch with an array of local wares. One of the best places for you to pick up souvenirs such as woolens, the local Temi Tea leaves, as well as the Kukri styled local booze bottle. Plenty of Feng Sui articles, Thangkas, red and green chillies and Sikkimese Cheese are the other unmistakable items.
We woke up to a cold and misty November morning the next day, all prepared, excited and well padded up to combat the weather. Please do remember to carry heavy winter clothing with you (of course depending on the time of the year), which I forgot and bought there instead. Hopping into some Sumos, we were headed towards Tsongmo Lake, Baba Mandir, Nathu La Pass, Rumtek Monastery and the rest of the vicinity of Sikkim. We would be traveling for almost 60 km and to a height of at least 14,450 ft above sea level towards the Indo-China border.
As the sun rose our hearts felt a similar rise of emotions which doubled at the sight of the clear vision of the Kanchenjunga Range’s glistening peaks in a strange mix of white and golden hue. No wonder this majestic peak is known as the deity of Sikkim. This was one of the most spectacular drives I’ve been on so far. The farther we got from Gangtok, the grandeur of the scenery became further enhanced with wild flowers everywhere, craggy mountains with waterfalls, and slanting sun rays for company.
Although each of us had popped a pill avoid motion sickness, the constant action of the journey kept us falling sick. A sharp bend on the narrow mountain route brought us face to face with risk and beauty at the same time. Suddenly the entire area was engulfed in an envelope of heavy mist, but our skillful driver showed no sign of panic. He immediately took control of the familiar situation (he faces these everyday) and creepily drove us out of peril, thereby treating us with the most magnificent Kyangnosla Falls. At this moment even the Niagara Falls felt less exquisite.
One can admire and enjoy these exquisite falls either from the benches set for the same purpose or by climbing down to the pool which collects the water. So we took a welcome break and treated ourselves to hot cups of Sikkimese Tea made with Yak milk with the falls serving as an eye-candy for all. Some over-enthusiasts decided to get up, close and personal with Kyangnosla and fell into the ice-cold pool, but were saved in the nick of time by some localites. Guess we always have such over-smart companions for constant entertainment. Of course all this was captured in the cameras. Nonetheless, our hunger for adventure and excitement grew double-fold. We had hit the road again and hadn’t quite got over what Kyangnosla had to offer. But lo-behold, a kilometer or two uphill, we turned a soft bend and held our breaths… the beautiful, calm, emerald green Tsongmo Lake, quietly nestled in a valley beckoned us and struck a chord in our hearts.
Tsongmo (pronounced as Changu) is about 40km away from Gangtok and is situated at an altitude of 12,000 ft on the Gangtok-Nathula highway. It is about 1km long, 15 km deep, is oval in shape and is home to Brahmi ducks along with a variety of migratory birds. Winter freezes this lake, they say, and it looks like a milky white sheet until mid-May. We were, however, unfortunate to experience the same, so will be back again. Currently we warmed our hearts with the brilliant mix of flora and fauna around the lake. Tsongmo offers other attractions such as Yak rides, souvenir shops and eateries.
Having soaked in whatever we could our convoy of Sumos moved forward towards Nathu La Pass. But the main topic of discussion was about Baba Mandir instead, which is located 50 km away from Tsongmo Lake at an altitude of 14,500 ft. Built in the memory of Major Harbhajan Singh (Aug 1941-Oct 1968) of the 23rd Punjab Regiment, Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir lies between Nathu La and Jelep La Passes. Legend has it that he had appeared in the dream of a fellow soldier a few days after he went missing under mysterious circumstances (he drowned in a glacier following the Indo-China War of 1962 and is said to have led the search party to find his body after 3 days), and expressed a desire that a monument be built in his memory. This memorial, has, over the years acquired the status of a pilgrimage. It is also believed that Babaji continues to protect the border and the soldiers stationed there, till date. He visits every night, wears his uniform and boots and does his regulation rounds. There’s a bed made for him every night, and every morning the crumpled sheets are smoothed out or changed, his boots polished and uniform readied. The departed soldier still draws a monthly salary and avails of an annual leave wherein his belongings travel by train to his hometown every year and his mother receives a some of money too. There’s a strong belief that Babaji grants boons, answers prayers and blesses and protects one and all. Hence believers leave a water bottle/can and collect it later, with the hope that their dreams will be fulfilled.
This shrine stands around Harbhajan Singh’s “Samadhi” and is bright yellow in colour with red roofs flanked with yellow Khalsa and red Om flags fluttering in the strong wind. You cannot miss the eerie feeling this place has to offer since it gives a completely different picture of what the soldiers endure to protect us. (I’m getting goose bumps as I relate this). The entire premise is manned by soldiers 24X7 and even when the place is hip deep in snow. One room of the Mandir is filled with wish-water cans (with name tags on them) and the other has a large framed photograph of Babaji along with other Hindu Gods. Most of the outer walls are tiled with marble plaques put up by various regiments asking for Babaji’s blessings and protection. The faithful were even seen to prostrate, ring several bells and leave offerings of money and incense.
Despite the bright sunlight at this altitude, it’s bitterly cold due to strong winds. Our plan was to visit the Nathu La Pass since we were just 10 km away from the famed Indo-China silk route. It is at a height of 14,750 ft and approximately 54 km from Gangtok. It is important to remember that tourist visit to the Pass is limited to Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays and a special permit is to be obtained 24 hours in advance. Since we had not obtained the same and moreover due to strong winds after noon, we weren’t allowed…so near yet so far.
Alpine meadows turning red hinting at the approaching winter, met us on our way back. Semi-wild yaks and mules grazed on the sparse vegetation as we turned our backs to Nathu La. Several small streams meander through treeless landscapes and make their way down to the vast lake. With great difficulty we detached ourselves from these scenic surroundings since we needed to reach Gangtok on time. It was beyond 5:30 pm when we touched base and had to trudge back to our hotel from the drop point…remember the no-vehicle rule?
Next days’ itinerary included a trip around Gangtok town and then Rumtek Monastery. The Enchy Monastery is at a walking distance from the Hotel. This beautiful structure was built in 1909 at the spot where Lama Druptob Karpo had constructed a small hermitage for meditation. The Lama had tantric powers and was believed to have flown from Mainom in South Sikkim to the hill-top where this Monastery stands today. Enchy means a place of solitude.
The Sikkim palace stands adjacent to Enchy in complete isolation and lifeless splendour. The ‘No Visitors’ Board outside was a clear indication for us to stay away and the guards double the warning with their stern body language. Please note that photography is strictly prohibited here, so it wasn’t possible to capture the beauty of the majestic building and the vicinity.
Our next stop was Ganesh Top standing atop a steep, secluded, wooded pathway upwards from the Palace. The amazing view of sprawling Gangtok as well as the panoramic view of the Kanchenjunga and Siniolchu peaks from here along with the treat from Tashi View Point are not to be missed.
Having spent half the day and soaked in the delightful splendour of what the town had to offer, we began our 24 km drive towards Rumtek Monastery after a quick meal. The Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre was built in 1960 by His Holiness the Late 16th Gyalwa Karmapa. This humungous and breathtaking blue, white and red structure is believed to be a replica of the original Kagyurpa Monastery in Tsurphu, Tibet and it houses some of the world’s most unique religious scriptures, manuscripts and art objects.
The old Rumtek Monastery which was originally built in 1730 is fifteen minutes downhill from the Centre. It was built by the 9th Karmapa but was destroyed in a fire and had to be reconstructed to its present state. The complex also constitutes an institute of Higher Buddhist Studies inside which is installed a golden statue of The Buddha flanked by Manjushree and Karmapa.
Interestingly, we realized that life in the Monastery was an amalgam of the ancient cultures and modern amenities. On the one hand we chatted and played carom and football with the boy monks who had sparkling and beaming round faces, and on the other, there were some young monks making traditional wheat-flour prayer symbols dipped in red dye. There was even a press with 2 printers laboriously hand-printing manuscripts to help hand down the age-old Buddhist Teachings. All these monks were then seen eagerly participating in the annual Tibetan dance festival called Tse-Chu Chaasus and Kagyat with equal élan.
The crisp mountain air and the haiku nature of the terrain left an indelible impression of the Sikkim trip in our hearts. It was difficult to accept that we’ll not be waking up to this enchanting ambience the following day. Carrying with us the essence of the Kanchenjunga worshippers, we left. But shall surely return since the mystique still remains to be explored and solved.
